Angela Neal Grove

Photojournalist, Speaker, World Traveler | Keeping a Finger on the Pulse

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You are here: Home / Asia / Oman Highlights from an Arabian Journey

Oman Highlights from an Arabian Journey

March 25, 2018 By Angela Neal Grove

Oman Highlights: Palace of Sultan Qaboos, Muscat. PHOTO: ANGROVE
Muscat, Oman. Palace of the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said of Oman. Muscat is Oman’s capital. Sultan Qaboos was ruler of The Sultanate of Oman since 1970. He is credited with modernizing the country and using oil revenues to update education, healthcare and build excellent roads.
Oman Highlights. Endless sands of the Empty Quarter. PHOTO: AN GROVE
Endless golden shifting sands of the Empty Quarter cover traces of trading routes stretching back to the time of the Queen of Sheba and frankincense trading

Journey from Muscat to ancient ruins of Sumharam

Oman highlights are hundreds of miles of golden shifting desert sands of Arabia’s Empty Quarter which camel caravans traversed for millennia. There are also towering mountains, immense canyons rivaling the Grand Canyon, as well as rich date-palm oases. Ancient forts and storybook castles dot the landscape in this country which reminded me of Scheherazade‘s One Thousand and One Arabian Nights.

Located on the far west of the Arabian Peninsula, Oman is across the Persian Gulf from Iran. Until recently it was known as The Sultanate of Muscat and Oman. Once it was part of an empire reaching down the West coast of Africa including Zanzibar. Here are some Oman highlights of my recent journey.

Highlights of Oman: Bedu family in a traditional tent at the Muscat Festival//ANGrove
Under the modernizing influence of Sultan Qaboos, many of the Bedu have been rehoused and no longer live a nomad existence wandering the desert with their camels. Bedu photographed here at the Muscat Festival, held each February, is a group of Bedu seated in a traditional tent.
Oman Highlights: Coastline of Sur, Sultanate of Oman//ANGrove
The picturesque city of Sur, south of Muscat is the center of ship building. Oman has a strong maritime tradition. For centuries Omanis protected their land and traded throughout Asia and Africa sailing strong sturdy wooden boats called Dhows.
Oman highlights: Fresh caught Tuna//ANGrove
The off-shore waters of Oman are rich with fish. These beautiful fresh-caught tuna were in the Fish Souk, or market, at Sur. There were also pods of Spinner dolphin frolicking just off shore. At Ras al Jinz reserve we watched Green turtles lumbering ashore to lay eggs in the sand. The marine environment is relatively unspoiled and scuba diving and snorkeling popular.
Oman Highlights, mud brick homes and date palm oasis// ANGrove
Inland from the coast the mountain ranges rise steeply. This oasis of Birkat al Mauz, once a center for banana plantations, now produces dates. The clay ruins of the town above the trees are still partially inhabited. Traditional irrigation systems datingback 1,500 years still serve the town.
Highlights of Oman: Wadi Shab//ANGrove
Wadi Shab. Centuries of erosion have carved massive canyons into the mountains. Called Wadis, these canyons have attracted small communities which use the water which cascades from the mountains.  Wadis, Oman highlights, are also popular for hiking and picnics, especially in the heat of the summer. The rocky trails can be challenging.
Oman highlights: Wadi Khalid//ANGrove
Access to Wadi Bani Khalid was easier than Wadi Shab and popular with families.
Oman highlights: Wadi Ghul//ANGrove
Setting sun over Wadi Ghul, Oman’s Grand Canyon in the Jebel Akhdar Mountains which reach 10,000 feet. The canyon is the second deepest in the world. I stayed at the beautiful Alilia Hotel on the Sirq Plateau where the hiking was magnificent. I would return in a heartbeat.
Oman highlights angela hiking
This seven mile hike took seven hours. The route was marked by Omani flags painted onto rocks. There really is no trail and sometimes the markers were hard to find. It was, however a highlight of the trip..
Oman Highlights; Bahia Fort//ANGrove
Bahia Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site is the oldest and first Omani fort built in Islamic style. In Oman There are forts everywhere. They guard villages, the coast, cities and mountain passes and were built for serious sieges. Some have roof grates where boiling date juice was once poured on enemies.
Oman highlights: black arabian camels//ANGrove
In the South of Oman most of the camels are black with curly coats. Since many Bedu have moved from tents to housing camels are no longer used for daily transportation.
Oman hilights: Frankincence trees//ANGrove
Southern Oman is where Frankincense trees grow. It is said that the Queen of Sheba sourced her Frankincense here to take to King Solomon. It was a center for ancient caravan routes, and there are lost cities covered by drifting sands.  The ancient city/port of Sumharam was the center for Frankincense trading. Beyond this grove of trees is the fabled Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world which spans Arabia. It is the size of France, Holland and Belgium combined.
Oman highlights: Traditional Omani chicken and rice//ANGrove
Omani’s have their main meal of the day around two in the afternoon. It is generally rice with chicken, beef, goat, local kingfish or camel meat. Evening meals tend to be lighter with hummus, vine-leaves, eggplant and flatbread.

 

Camel riding at Wahiba sands where sand dunes tower above the tents.

Oman Highlights

This journey in Oman was extraordinary and the people I met could not have been more friendly or helpful. The country’s golden shifting sands, rugged mountains and storybook forts and castles are a dramatic backdrop to the ancient and exotic history. I look forward to returning.

Filed Under: Asia, Oman

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